N U B R A . V A L L E Y

How to reach there?

Nubra Valley is the newest Destination in Ladakh made open to the public in the late 90's. The river Shayok divides Nubra valley from rest of Ladakh. The Khardong La, which is the gateway to the Nubra Valley, is the highest motorable road on earth, at a height of 5603 metres above sea level. (Sounds great, ain't it??)

While planning for Nubra, one night halt at Hunder is a must. Only then can you enjoy the beauty around. Start early in the morning (6 AM will do). As you leave Leh and climb the mountains towards Khardong La, the scene becomes more and more awesome. Soon you will feel at the top of the world and almost all mountain peaks, far till the eyes can see, appear below you. The road up and up is almost invariably surrounded by clouds, by virtue of its height. Leh appears far and far, small and small, as you approach Khardong. The nearby mountains are covered with clouds. Ice slopes start making appearance. And finally at Khardong, the Indian Army welcomes you to the Highest Motorable Road on Earth. Do not forget to click a photo with the height plaque. The army has sponsored a free tea stall at the top. The air is thin and breathing may be a problem for some. The view is amazing. On the side facing Leh, there far far away the endless mountains appear to merge into nowhere. Leh cannot be seen from here. But just a few km before reaching Khardong, Leh can be seen as a small green patch. The vehicles climbing appear even smaller than toys. Really. On the Nubra side, hazy mountains completely hidden in clouds, with ice scattered over them is a common feature. If weather is clear, you may get a better view of the big mountain ranges and the parts of the Saser massif. As you descend on the Nubra side, tall ice slabs near the road are seen.

After a series of hair pins, and then covering a distance of 9 km comes North Pullu, where one can have tea and breakfast. Then 5 km later comes the village of Khardong. Beyond Khardong, some few km later, you will get the first glance of the Nubra Valley, and the river Shayok. Mostly a sandy mountainous place, there are green pockets of vegetation here and there.

Till now, you were going towards the valley. At one turn, you will start moving parallel to the Valley, and more and more descending, till the level of river is reached. Villages start appearing, and then comes the bridge after Khalsar. Crossing the Bridge will lead you to Panamik, whereas moving straight will lead you to Deskit and Hunder. I suggest continuing straight without crossing bridge. The water of Shayok is real muddy. It becomes difficult at times to differentiate between the banks and the river. They appear the same. Excitement will now rise, as you start seeing the typical desert sand and an occasional dune. As you see ahead now, the valley bifurcates into two valleys, with a mountain developing in between them. The one on left is the Nubra River Valley with Hunder and Deskit, while the other is the Siachen River Valley with Panamik. Each valley is very wide, so the scene of two together, you can imagine!

Deskit is the first place to come. Uniform settlements, very sparse population. Don't stop and continue to Hunder, some 3 or 4 km ahead.

As you travel ahead towards Hunder, sand dunes start coming into picture. More and more of them, at every turn. Get down and enjoy in the dunes. It's real fun. This sand is different from the desert sand. The snow peaks in the background, and the flowing river as well, all add to the fun. As you continue a turn comes, where you enter the pebbled roads. Big and small rounded rocks on the banks of a WHITE with a GREEN tinged stream, tall thin trees at the banks, small rounded ones around, the sound of the stream in the background, the snow capped peaks there ahead, both sides of roads having pebbles of various sizes as also stones big and small and plantations. A population of not more than a few hundred. Probably. And the sandy mountainous landscape all around. Welcome to Hunder, one of the most beautiful Villages I have ever seen in my life. No exaggeration. As you enter the village over 'kaccha' roads, thickly surrounded by trees, and mud houses with a terraces can be seen. Sounds of birds chirping amidst sounds of typical village life will enthrall you. There are a few places to stay. I suggest staying at the Goba Guest House, run by one honest and hardworking Mr.Tsering Angchuk. The food here is also nice as are the rooms and the garden and the surrounding. After checking in here, one can move around Hunder. The population must be hardly a few hundreds. Probably. People have their own farming. The houses are small but widely separated, amongst lots of trees. Apricots, apples, and various other fruits are grown. The villagers are in their own peaceful world, not bothered by various afflictions of the world, money, terrorism, haves, wants, etc. And one thing, the girls here are exquisitely beautiful, natural and without the makeup. Enjoy the evening walk upto the river and back.

In the next morning, one can leave back for Leh, visiting Panamik. One thing to see in Hunder and Deskit are the two humped camels. There is one camel farm in Deskit where you are sure to find them. However, most of them appear malnourished. Or probably it is their natural structure. There are many small clear water ponds, where in a clear weather, a fantastic reflection of the peaks can be seen. Panamik has nothing much to offer, except being the last town till which civilians are allowed. Beyond this, 55 km, is Sasoma, from where the base camp of Siachen Glacier can be reached. Siachen Glacier is the highest battlefield in the world. There are some not-worth-seeing hot water springs in Panamik. There is one Government School, which can be seen. Mr.Marhatta is the principal there and will warmly receive you and will also allow you to take photos of those cute youngsters studying. One can return back to Leh after all this.